Three Pakistani women conquer 5,500 metre Kuksil peak

By
Faizan Lakhani
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KARACHI: Defying all odds and circumstances, three female mountaineers from Pakistan accomplished the first national women expedition by climbing 5,500-metre Kuksil peak in Khunjrab region.

The three mountaineers include Samana Rahim, Sultana Amiruddin and Dubai-based Komal Uzair, who – under the guidance of Mirza Ali – first attempted to climb the Passu Peak but unfavourable weather conditions forced them to continue their expedition at Kuksil Peak.

Bad weather wasn’t the only hurdle in the way of the female mountaineers. Their initial plans suffered a setback when six out of seven registered climbers withdrew due to lack of sponsorship.

According to Ali, they first attempted to climb the 7284-meter Passu Peak but couldn’t accelerate beyond 4,900 meters due to wide crevasses on glaciers. There was no track for the mountaineers to move forward.

After descending to safe tracks, an alternate plan to climb the 6008-meter Koh-e-Brobar in Shimshal was considered.

However, bad news awaited the climbers.

“The peak is strenuous and has easy access so the team agreed to start preparations to go down to Passu; porters were called and then there was another bad news…Shimshal river was flooded due to melting glaciers, which washed out Shimshal road and the foundation of a bridge that connects Shimshal Pamir and Gojrave valley,” Ali told Geo.tv.

So the team decided to climb Kuksil Sar in Khunjrab.

The team setup the base camp — a fine view of the nearest mountains enticed them to a quicker start. On August 6 two members went for recce around the peak while other team members carried load to high camp.

“On 7 August, the team went to high camp with a heavy load, we decided to rest on the next day, and the team started climbing the mountain on August 9,” Ali said. “The returning time was set to be 10.30am, since heavy rainfall at night could make the conditions unfavourable. By 11am the team reached the peak at 5500-metres.”

Reminiscing the memorable moment of singing the national anthem on the top of the peak, he said it was ‘indeed a unique and unforgettable moment.’

“The team safely reached the base camp, resolved to attempt the next mission of climbing another 5800-metres peak,” he said. “However, in the evening massive a thunder storm and snowfall wrapped the expedition.”

Ali explained that the team’s main target was to reach the top of Passu Peak was changed twice due to unsafe conditions and road blockage.